Alternator, Battery, or Starter?

When you have problems starting your car, how do you know if it’s your alternator, battery, or starter?

Here’s a quick guide to help you narrow down your specific problem. Keep in mind this is not a definitive diagnostic. There are three standard components when it comes to a no-start.

Starter

When your starter goes bad, your dash lights will come on when you turn the key but won’t start. You will likely hear a clicking sound when you turn the key, like a slow or weak crank.

Alternator-

Today’s vehicles have become increasingly reliant on electrical energy, increasing the battery’s burden. To keep the battery charged, the mechanical energy created when your car is running is converted to electrical energy by the alternator and then fed to the battery.

Battery-

Over time batteries, no matter how small or big, will lose their ability to hold a charge. And yes, electric cars lose their ability to recharge, so be prepared for that expense, which can run $4000-$20,000.

You’ll know your battery is the culprit if you can jump your car and it continues to run, but once the vehicle is shut off, it will not start again without another jump. There are exceptions to this; your battery may be so dead that it can not hold any charge, so you would not be able to jump it. Depending on the remaining voltage, you may or may not have dash lights on when you attempt to start the vehicle. Additionally, you may or may not hear the clicking of the starter rotating the motor.

Your car may not start for various mechanical reasons, but if you suspect it’s one of the above three, this list will provide you with some ideas for basic data collection to bring to your mechanic.